1. Wax and tuning your snowboard or skies

Tuning your skis or snowboard is an essential step to ensure enjoyment, safety and performance while on the mountain. Having properly tuned equipment allows you to better accelerate, decelerate and have a more controlled turning action. Waxing and tuning your board is not just for professionals but for all athletes enabling them to get the most enjoyment from the sport. With Demon's user friendly line of waxes and tuning equipment you can achieve a professional grade tune anywhere.

2. Choosing the correct wax:

When determining the type of wax that will give you the best performance on the mountain it is important to observe both the temperature and humidity. Below are a couple easy rules that will help in your selection.

Converting Celsius to Fahrenheit

C = 5(F - 32)/9 and F = 9C/5 + 32

  • D57010 - Cold Wax: Range (30 degrees F and Below)
  • D57020 - Warm Wax: Range (30 degrees F and Above)
  • DS7040 - Universal Wax: Range (good in all conditions)
  • DS7050 - Modified Hydrocarbon (good in all conditions)
  • DS7060 - Black Gold Graphite (good in all conditions)
  • DS7001- Universal Paste rub on (Wax (good in all conditions)
  • DS7003 - All Temp Spray-On Wax (good in all conditions)

The moisture in the snow will also impact your wax choice. If the snow is so dry that a snowball cannot be made, a colder/harder wax (DS7010) is a good way to go. If the snow is sticking together nicely, a warmer/softer wax (DS7020) will work better.

3.Apply the Iron on Waxes


Apply generously your base cleaner. (DS7000) Be sure to use a towel or rag that will not leave particles or flurries. Firmly scrub the bottom of your board to remove old wax, dirt or other grit that may be on the board. Repeating this process before each wax will increase the effectiveness of the tune up. Let sit for a few minutes after ward to allow the cleaner evaporate.

First choose the proper wax for your riding conditions. Then put down an old sheet or some newspaper to catch dripping wax. Then put your board base-up. (If you do not have vises you can improvise with boxes or on some books). Plug in your iron and set it to a medium heat. It should be hot enough to readily melt the wax, but not so hot that the wax smokes. Hold the iron perpendicular to your snowboard with the pointed side down. Press the wax bar against the hot iron and hold it there. As the wax drips, move the iron up and down the base of your board until you have stripes of dripped wax 1 to 2 inches apart. Set the wax aside.

Now iron in all that wax until the base of your board is fully covered. Keep the iron moving; leaving it in one area for too long can damage the snowboard.

Turn off the iron and wait 15 to 20 minutes for the wax to set and cool. Now grab the scraper (DS7304 or DS7305) and scrape off any excess wax in a nose to tail motion. Scraping away all the wax may sound counter-productive, until you realize that a hot wax actually opens up the pores in a snowboards base where you want wax to go. Excess wax will only slow you down.
5. Buff

After scraping, use the scotchbrite pad in a nose to tail motion to take off the last of the wax and give your board a finishing touch. You are now ready to ride.

3.Tuning your board

Using your DS7100 Edge Tuner.

Sharpening the side edge will give you control, increase grip on snow/ice, the ability to stop and turn on the icy or hard packed conditions. Use long smooth strokes with the Edge Tuner (DS7100) overlapping each section to maintain a uniform edge from tip to tail. If you are unsure as to how much edge to remove, mark the edge with a black magic marker and then file the edge until the marker is gone. Wipe the edge filings off the base, after every two or three strokes, to prevent grinding the edge filings into the base.

If you are going to be riding on ice or hard pack snow, or are an advanced or competitive rider, you will want a side edge bevel. By reducing your side edge angle you are creating a more acute angle. This angle is extremely effective for competition, steep runs; icy and hard packed conditions. The acute angle also, reduces the friction of the edges cutting into the slope/snow, which makes your equipment run quicker. Perform the same technique as above. With a black marker color the whole side edge from tip to tail. Use the Edge Tuner side that reads 88 degrees. Begin with the rougher, cross-cut side of the file and switch to the smother cut as you approach the final stages of completely removing the black marker form the edges. When you have removed the black marker completely from the edge, you will have a uniform and 88° angled edge from tip to tail.

Using your Flat File (included in many of tune kits or sold separately)

There are two edges to sharpen, flat filing for the Base Edge and side filing for the Side Edge.

To check your edges for rock damage or nicks, use the scotchbrite pad and run it along the edges. The fibers on the pad will grab at any damaged sections.

Inspect these damaged areas for they may need extra work when filing the edges. The pad method will prevent you from cutting your fingers as opposed to inspecting the edges with your bare fingers. Your base edge needs to be filed only once and again only when it is damaged by a rock (nicked) or rust. Do not flat file often and when you do, do it lightly, other wise you end up with a severe base bevel. Keep your base edge clean with the DS7005 Pocket stone.

A filed base edge allows the equipment to glide and turn easier. Lay the Demon Flat File on the base at a 45° angle to the edge. Use long smooth strokes with the file, (Approximately 1/3 the length of the board per stroke), slightly overlapping each section to maintain a uniform edge from tip to tail. If you are unsure as to how much edge to remove, mark the edge length with a black magic marker and then file the edge until the marker is gone. Keep on filing, without bending the file, until the file stops removing the excess edge and glides smoothly. This will ensure a clean and sharp uniform edge. For filing the tip and tail sections or the non-running surface of your equipment, place the file at 90° to the edge. This prevents the file from rocking and enables you to flatten the edge to the base.

4. Detuning your edges

After each time you sharpen edges. You will want to de-tune the tip and tail which reduces over turning and grabbing of the tip and tail. Use the D57005 Pocket stone to de-tune the edges at the tip and tail. To de-tune you hold the stone at a 45° angle to the edge and rub it back and forth two to three times length wise to remove the sharpness of the edge at the tip and tail ends. With the stone, pressing lightly (you can always remove more edge if not effective later) round the curved section of tip and tail approximately 3 to 6cm along the running surface (where the board makes contact with the snow).

5. Brush types and uses

Use the Brass Tuning Brush to expose the base area prior to waxing your snowboard. This brush is designed to be worked from tip to tail-always in the same direction. The Nylon Brush is your hybrid brush, great for exposing your base from medium debris and giving it that finishing touch after waxing. Run this brush from tip to tail to help texture the ski, and snowboard, which makes it glide more effectively. The Horse Hair Brush is your final brush used for last pass after a hot wax. Run this brush from tip to tail to finish off your perfect tune.